Novgorod (3 cents)

The exhibit at the Walters in Baltimore on artifacts (more than just icons) from Novgorod is very interesting. Novgorod is an old, old city in the heart of Russia that has always been exceedingly Russian. It has existed since at least about 800 C.E., and because of the nature of the soil and ground, and the wood construction which has always been predominant, it provides fertile ground for archeologists and anthropoligists, who have identified twelve different layers of the city, one on top of the other. Excavations are continuing, and will continue for a long time, bringing up items that demonstrate some of the basic characteristics of Russian life for over a millenium.

The Walters exhibit is sponsored by the museum, as well as by museums in Moscow and Novgorod, so it presents one of the only opportunities to see some of the many items on display. The icons and other religious pictures on wood (actually on canvas on treated rough wood, with a varnish for protection) are striking, with their bright colored dyes, all made (of course) from natural sources (plants and rocks). There is also jewelry and other articles of adornment, ceramics and metal cookery, coins, books and writings on wood and parchment, toys, riding aides and so forth. The signage is excellent, both for its content and its placement. There are also objects (particularly cloth fragments) that demonstrate that Novgorod was a major trade center on routes to the west, to the north, and to the south (Constantinople) from which Christianity (of the eastern orthodox variety) arrived at any early date.

Photos and models of cathedrals and reminders that this has always been a cold and muddy place complete the picture. It is there until sometime in February and worthy the drive. It is too bad that the book created for the exhibit is hardback, $65, and not that attractive at that.